Sabatini White Women’s Summer Fashion 2011
New York Fashion Week: Rising star Prabal Gurung needs to stay grounded
For some reason this season, Prabal Gurung was anointed the new kid to watch. When he staged his first runway show in the Tents on Saturday, everyone was there -- department store buyers, magazine editors, even a celeb or two.Why? Who knows. Oprah's a fan, the designer has a quirky name (pronounced Praa-ball) and a cute face, he grew up in Katmandu, started his career in India, and was design director at Bill Blass for five years.
Sculpted coats and skirts in camel, black and white wool cashmere with curvilinear seams had a Blass feel to them, but a bit too much bulk, and the floating panels, peplums and double layers weren't incorporated well enough into the designs.
One-shouldered silk gazar dresses, distinguished by sculptural ruffles, didn't feel that special either.
The best look -- a motocross-inspired minidress that was a patchwork of metallic oxidized lace and wool faille. Too bad he didn't stay focused on that technique a little longer.
New York Fashion Week: Could Ohne Titel be the next Donna Karan
The most exciting thing I saw on the runway Saturday was the Ohne Titel collection. Bringing a new kind of cool to draped silk, velvet and washed leather separates by working them with athletic mesh and knit, designers Flora Gill and Alexa Adams challenged the boring vernacular of office suiting.Could we be looking at the next Donna Karan?
The designers, who met at Parsons School of Design and have stints at Helmut Lang and Karl Lagerfeld between them, launched their line in 2011, and they have been on an upward trajectory ever since, garnering nominations and awards from the Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation and the Council of Fashion Designers of America.
For fall, they worked in a palette of black, moss green, sand and pewter to create a number of separates that could find a place in any woman's wardrobe -- lean, asymmetrically cut soft leather and ribbed knit jackets, cropped shearlings, combo leather and knit leggings. Their version of the suit was a moss-colored silk blazer worn with silk pants that were slouchy up top, spiraling into ribbed knit at the bottom of the legs.
Although they cited the 19th century as inspiration, there was nothing retro about a techno collage, multicolored mesh dress, a sand leather and silk cowl neck top or a silk drawstring skirt with black leather front pouch pocket that brought motocross to mind.
After all, these are clothes for women on the move. And let's hope this is the collection that brings this label to a wider audience. In Los Angeles, Ohne Titel (German for "untitled") is stocked at Zainab and Satine.
New York Fashion Week: BCBG Max Azria, Cynthia Rowley explore the urban jungle
The urban tribal aesthetic we saw last season at Proenza Schouler and Balenciaga is starting to turn up in the fall collections in New York this week. First, it was at BCBG Max Azria on Thursday morning, where neutral-colored, draped silk dresses in geometric cuts were shot through with blocks of vibrant blue and yellow.
And it continued at Cynthia Rowley, where models had bright color woven into their hair and the band Preacher and the Knife struck a tribal beat.
a new fashion passion
I have a new fashion passion. And it comes from the most unlikely source. It’s a figure skimming shift in purple jersey. And I am wearing it today. There’s some thoughtful ruching at the side which creates some fabulously camouflaging drape across the tum and a convincing curve at the waist. It’s got sharply padded shoulders and velvet sleeves and hits at the perfect level; just about knee-length. It arrived in a parcel that looked no bigger than a T-shirt and emerged without a wrinkle which means it will pack like a dream.
It looked good at a working brunch this morning and I’ll be wearing it to a cocktail do tonight straight from the office. There isn’t a pull or pinch anywhere in it and yet I think it looks pretty sharp and hot, if I say so myself. The litmus test is the office reaction and that was a unanimous ‘wow’ which is why I am blogging this right now.
It’s not from Bond St or Sloane. It’s not from Paris or Milan. Today’s perfect purple dress is from LK Bennett. The reason I am surprised, is that I have pigeon-holed that brand into the workwear category: a place where women who don’t have the luxury of the relaxed dress code we have, must go to buy a 9-5 wardrobe. Something about that makes me anxious: as if there was a risk of some sinister cross contamination if your working wardrobe got muddled up with your weekend one. I’ve always shied away.
But recently I realised that the brand has seriously upped their fashion game. The winter collection has got some fantastic tailored dresses (a hint of Roland Mouret, Victoria Beckham, Antonio Berardi construction) and some chicly feminine cocktail options. I’ve already got four dresses on my list for the summer.
And I am not alone. At the Christian Dior cocktail party at Claridges last week, I cornered a very eminent colleague in a particularly fab, purple and fuschia printed jersey shift. She was making the rest of us, in black, look dull and I wanted her to know that. Where was it from? Was it Lanvin commercial collection perhaps, was it maybe summer collection Etro or a vintage find from a Gucci Cruise line? No, it was L K Bennett.
(This may be workwear, Grazia Girls, but not as we know it.)
It looked good at a working brunch this morning and I’ll be wearing it to a cocktail do tonight straight from the office. There isn’t a pull or pinch anywhere in it and yet I think it looks pretty sharp and hot, if I say so myself. The litmus test is the office reaction and that was a unanimous ‘wow’ which is why I am blogging this right now.
It’s not from Bond St or Sloane. It’s not from Paris or Milan. Today’s perfect purple dress is from LK Bennett. The reason I am surprised, is that I have pigeon-holed that brand into the workwear category: a place where women who don’t have the luxury of the relaxed dress code we have, must go to buy a 9-5 wardrobe. Something about that makes me anxious: as if there was a risk of some sinister cross contamination if your working wardrobe got muddled up with your weekend one. I’ve always shied away.
But recently I realised that the brand has seriously upped their fashion game. The winter collection has got some fantastic tailored dresses (a hint of Roland Mouret, Victoria Beckham, Antonio Berardi construction) and some chicly feminine cocktail options. I’ve already got four dresses on my list for the summer.
And I am not alone. At the Christian Dior cocktail party at Claridges last week, I cornered a very eminent colleague in a particularly fab, purple and fuschia printed jersey shift. She was making the rest of us, in black, look dull and I wanted her to know that. Where was it from? Was it Lanvin commercial collection perhaps, was it maybe summer collection Etro or a vintage find from a Gucci Cruise line? No, it was L K Bennett.
(This may be workwear, Grazia Girls, but not as we know it.)
Fashion Diary: Technology meets Fashion Week
Gossip, first impressions, trends in the making, celebrities and style setters.Hundreds of designers will present their fall collections during the monthlong runway circuit that kicked off Wednesday in New York and ends in mid-March in Paris with a stop in Milan along the way. And although the runway shows used to be exclusive events -- closed to all but select editors, store buyers and stylists -- fashion houses increasingly are extending the reach of their blockbuster productions by using the Internet.
For several seasons now, fashion show attendees have been taking their own amateur video and photos and posting them online using Twitter, Facebook and YouTube. So it was only a matter of time before designers got on the bandwagon. Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren and Dolce & Gabbana are among those who have experimented with bringing their runway shows to the digital space.
New York Fashion Week: Jason Wu, a case of outsized ambition
Jason Wu's fall collection was a case of outsized ambition. On the one hand, menswear-inspired separates strayed too far from the designer's comfort zone. On the other, couture-inspired Chantilly lace ball gowns (some with padded hips) overwhelmed his tiny, poorly lit runway.Daywear fell flat with boxy jackets in too-heavy mohair, fold-over-waist pegged trousers and unremarkable draped wool plaid skirts. Only his cocktail dresses hinted at what could have been, the best in a blush-colored gauze that looked like spun sugar.
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